basic hard drive upgrade instructions
---*-*---UPGRADE HARD DRIVES BEFORE THE HARD DRIVE'S 5-YEAR LIFESPAN EXPIRES!---*-*--- I used to say you should have upgraded the drive within the 4-5-year part of its 5-year lifespan (discovered this is not true, you can avoid this by buying grc.com's spinrite 6 and booting the disc and running it every 3 months).
running it may actually fix the problems you have with your computer (non-virus related). use it in place of chkdsk/repair filesystem/check filesystem for errors, because it has its own filesystem repair. works with many OS's and filesystems.
LAPTOP drive upgrade:
these steps might not work if you have a NON-JBOD RAID drive configuration. even with JBOD some RAID chips and BIOS may format the drive specially. yoou can try a drive copy a few times you see if you can get it going.
a warning to the wise: 1TB hard disks may not all physically fit in your laptop drive bay. somelaptops are thick enough to handle it. some are not. check the laptop manual for max drive height of the drive bay.
- buy fssdev.com's casper 7.0, the ISO version and the windows version. license states you have to you have to buy the $60 windows verion in order to get the $10 ISO version. sorry. it's the way it is. do it right and stay legal. sorry, they do not have a technician version. there is a business verison which allows for uses on a single machine. but the ISO has a "number of uses" clause on it, unfortunately. the windows version is only good for backing up files. the ISO version is the only version that works, and requires that you download something from microsoft to burn the disc.. you will be told about it.
- burn the ISO as a cdrom ISO image in your favorite cd burning program. make a backup copy in case it gets scratched. new verisons come along every once in a while. so login and check. has bug fixes and such. major version upgrades cost a whole new $70 I think.
- shutdown the computer.
- remove power adapter.
- remove battery (another source of power).
- unscrew hdd cover off laptop with precision screwdriver.
- unscrew with precision screwdriver any U-shell carrier the drive may be in which are used to easily slide the drive into the laptop and lock it in place for screwing down with 1 screw (easy removal, easy insertion).
- keep track of those screws and lay them out in a pattern so as not to get them mixed up. or keep any screws and put them in a baggie and tape it to the laptop!
- remove hard drive
- remove any 3rd-party connectors that may be attached (if it is IDE - has 2 rows of lots of gold pins).
- insert into icy dock hard drive dock and plug it in.
- plug in battery.
- plug in laptop power adapter
- boot fssdev.com's casper disc you burned. it can handle (for windows 7 and above) cross-sector-size disk upgrades. norton ghost and clonezilla cannot. there is no other drive clone software out there which can do this that I know of. I have had some trouble with the 7.0 version. but did eventually get a successful 80GB to 500GB 2.5" 512-byte sector drive migrate. GPT (GUID Partition Table) partitions associated with UEFI may or may not present a problem because they are GUID-based (unique). I don't know if this presents a problem when migrating disks. the disks may have to remain in the SATA slot they were partitioned in to keep the partition (? don;'t know?). I have to read more about GPT partition migration (drive copy) issues.
- do a copy disk operation. same with Norton Ghost and anything else. tell it you don't want a straight copy,but a proportional grow type of copy. again, casper copies ALL the partitions on the hard disk. ghost I think copies just 1. make sure it formats the disk. don't do anything fancy with shutting down the machine automatically or other "done action" options (just causes errors). leave that on defaults. sorry it's persnickity and buggy and this is a paradigm shift in software release since they had to lose their old method. so be patient. there's issues with new ".0 versions". avoid whole-disk format on SSD's if you can do a quick format. whole disk formats reduces the lifespan of the drive. you may have to do it if there is no other choice.
- if it tells you everything is successful, exit/shut down the program and have it shut down the computer and thus the machine
- power off the 2 disks after the machine is off using the buttons on the dock interfaces or the top of the dock boxes (the icy dock has a power button!). process should take about 1-2 hours for a 500GB hard disk on USB 2.0 with 80GB of data. includes formatting.
- remove the hard disks.
- remove the power adapter from the laptop
- remove the battery
- screw on the U-bracket in the same direction as it was before. usually it's in a way so that the single screw end is on the opposite side of the SATA drive interface which has the completewly open and flat end (so it won't be blocked from connecting by putting it on wrong).
- attach any 3rd-party connectors.
- slide/mount the drive into place. there should be no force needed. if it's not sliding in, there may be a slot you have to fit that tab on the U-bracket into, maybe at the bottom end of the laptop's drive cavity. your mileage may vary with the kind of laptop you bought. the U-bracket description I have given is for an old toshiba qosmio and a compaq.
- put in the battery
- plug in the laptop power adapter
- boot. if you do not have successful boot, try try again. work with fssdev.com's support. they provide bug fixes when you report a repeatable problem. be patient. it's the best program out there. the benefit is lots of nice space.
DESKTOP drive upgrade:
with some manufacturers,they put security tape on the case, and removing the case cover will void the warranty, as evidenced by the leaving of gunk or partial hologram sticker on the case. If it is past warranty, you can probably ignore this. business computers sometimes have a switch that senses when the case is opened, and the event is logged in CMOS.
If you want to mount the drive in a USB external drive cable: unscrew case, then unscrew hard drive. you may need to extract the hard drive cage if it has one to get the drive out. there is typically a catch or screw-plate to hold it in place.
If you want to upgrade internally inside the computer (I prefer this): unscrew case, you may need to extract the hard drive cage if it has one to get the drive in. there is typically a catch or screw-plate to hold it in place.
STEPS: steps are basically same as for the laptop above, except there's no U-bracket, no precision screwdrivers unless you are working with an SSD (in which case only do quick formats, not whole-disk formats if you can since whole-disk formats reduce drive lifespan), and no 3rd-party connectors unless you are working with some SSDs (mSATA interface for instance is really a PCI-E ior PCI (?which?) connector). and instead of power adapters and batteries, it's the power plug on the power supply and waiting for 10 minutes for the capacitors to discharge.
EXTERNAL HARD DRIVES:
you MIGHT be able to upgrade these before it expires. send them to eman data recovery. maybe to the manufacturer IF they perform data recovery. a lot of those things are sealed.